Quick answer
24K is the softest and purest, ideal for coins and bars but too fragile for daily jewelry. 22K holds heritage weight in traditional bridal pieces and one-ounce coins. 18K is the luxury balance for engagement rings. 14K is the American everyday standard, tough and affordable. 10K is the hardest and cheapest option, marketed for value-driven fashion jewelry.
The number stamped next to a “K” tells you the ratio of pure gold in an alloy out of 24 parts. Everything else about a piece flows from that ratio: color, hardness, tarnish behavior, resale value, and the price you should expect from a buyer. This guide walks through the five karat grades sold in the United States, the alloys that shape their color, the hallmarks used at home and abroad, and the exact formula dealers use to compute melt value from a live spot quote.
The 5 karat grades at a glance
| Karat | Purity (fineness) | Gold content | Common uses | Relative melt value |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 24K | 0.999+ (999.9 fine) | 99.9%+ pure gold | Investment bars, bullion coins, Asian bridal jewelry | Highest per gram |
| 22K | 0.9167 (916 fine) | 91.67% gold, ~8.33% alloy | Indian/Middle Eastern jewelry, American Gold Eagles | ~92% of 24K |
| 18K | 0.750 (750 fine) | 75% gold, 25% alloy | High-end engagement rings, luxury watches | 75% of 24K |
| 14K | 0.583 (585 fine) | 58.3% gold, 41.7% alloy | Most US wedding bands, chains, everyday jewelry | ~58% of 24K |
| 10K | 0.417 (417 fine) | 41.7% gold, 58.3% alloy | Fashion jewelry, class rings, budget pieces | ~42% of 24K |
The Federal Trade Commission’s Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries (16 CFR Part 23) is the rule that governs what a US seller may legally stamp and advertise. 10 karat is the legal minimum that can be sold as “gold” in the United States; anything under 10K must be labeled by its actual fineness, such as 8K or “gold-plated.”
24K gold: pure but soft
24 karat gold is as close to elemental gold as consumer products get, typically 99.9% or higher (referred to as three nines fine, 999.9, or 24K/999). It carries the deep, saturated warm yellow that untreated gold shows in nature and requires no alloying metals. Investment bars from LBMA-accredited refiners and government bullion coins other than the American Eagle are usually 24K.
The catch is hardness. On the Mohs mineral scale, pure gold sits at 2.5, softer than a fingernail (2.5 to 3). A 24K ring bends when you grip a suitcase handle, and prongs made of pure gold cannot reliably hold a diamond. That is why almost no US retail jewelry is sold at 24K. When it is, the piece is usually a light-gauge chain, an ornamental Chinese wedding bangle, or a display item.
For investors, 24K’s softness stops mattering the moment the metal enters a vault. Bars and coins do not need to survive daily wear, and the pure grade is what serious dealers and depositories quote. If you are researching pure gold as an asset rather than as adornment, our gold karat system explainer and gold value calculator break the numbers down further.
22K gold: heritage and coins
22 karat gold is 91.67% pure, the fineness stamped as 916 or “22K/916.” It is dense, softly saturated in color, and firm enough to survive display and light handling without dents. Historically it is the karat of choice for Indian, Bengali, Pakistani, Nepali, and Middle Eastern bridal collections, where the piece doubles as portable savings passed between generations.
American Gold Eagles are struck in 22K (91.67% gold, 3% silver, 5.33% copper) for the same reason: the copper hardens the coin enough to handle without visible wear while keeping a full troy ounce of gold inside. British sovereigns and Krugerrands use the same recipe. When you weigh a 22K piece, remember the copper and silver count in the total mass; the “gold content” is 91.67% of the weighed grams.
18K gold: the luxury sweet spot
At 75% gold, 18K carries clear market prestige without the softness that makes 24K impractical. European luxury houses (Cartier, Van Cleef, Rolex on precious editions, Bvlgari) build almost exclusively in 18K, and American engagement rings above the $5,000 price bracket often follow. The alloy blend at 18K can shift color aggressively: 75% gold plus 25% copper produces classic rose gold; 75% gold plus mostly silver produces a pale, greener yellow; 75% gold plus palladium or nickel plus rhodium plating produces white gold.
18K holds prong-setting integrity, resists gentle abrasion, and shows a lush yellow when unplated. It is heavy in the hand. The tradeoff is price: at any live spot, an 18K piece contains 28.5% more gold than a comparable 14K piece and costs proportionally more to produce. For the full breakdown of alloys, color science, and pricing dynamics in this grade, see our 18K gold complete guide.
14K gold: America’s everyday karat
Roughly 90% of new US wedding bands and mid-range jewelry are cast in 14K, according to the World Gold Council’s US retail surveys. At 58.3% gold, 14K holds a color close to 18K when the alloy skews warm, resists the daily knocks of typing, cleaning, and cooking, and lists at a price point most American buyers accept.
The alloy science matters for durability. 14K with a high-copper mix (rose 14K) is one of the toughest gold alloys ever produced; it withstands work-hardening on prongs and looks warm-pink. 14K white gold made with nickel is very hard but triggers contact dermatitis in an estimated 10 to 20% of people (see American Academy of Dermatology guidance on nickel allergy). Nickel-free 14K white gold uses palladium or zinc as the whitening agent and costs more. Our 14K gold complete guide covers each variant.
10K gold: durable and affordable
10 karat gold is 41.7% gold and 58.3% base metals. It is the US legal floor for a “gold” label and it is stamped 417. Because it holds more copper, zinc, silver, or nickel than gold, it is the hardest and most tarnish-resistant of the karats sold as jewelry. Class rings, budget wedding sets, sports championship rings, and inexpensive fashion pieces are commonly 10K.
10K carries less resale value per gram because the melt content is low. Buyers pay for the gold inside, not the piece; scrap and pawn quotes on 10K reflect that. The color is a paler, cooler yellow than higher karats, and if the alloy contains nickel, the same skin-reaction risk applies. Choose 10K when you want a wear-and-tear-first design at the lowest metal-content cost, or when a design (like a lacrosse championship band) will never leave the family safe.
Yellow, white, rose, green: how alloys change the color
Pure 24K gold is a fixed color: a warm, slightly reddish yellow. Every other hue comes from the alloy. The chart below summarizes the standard mixes at 18K, though the same logic scales to 14K and 10K with proportional swaps.
| Color | Typical 18K recipe | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow gold | 75% Au, 12.5% Ag, 12.5% Cu | Classic warm tone, no plating needed |
| Rose (pink) gold | 75% Au, ~25% Cu, trace Ag | More copper = deeper pink, harder alloy |
| White gold | 75% Au + Pd or Ni + Zn, rhodium-plated | Plating wears in 12 to 36 months; replate needed |
| Green gold (electrum) | 75% Au, 25% Ag | Pale greenish-yellow, rare in US retail |
White gold deserves a warning: the whiteness most buyers see at purchase is not the underlying alloy color, it is a thin rhodium electroplate applied at the finishing stage. That plating wears through faster on rings than on pendants (roughly 12 to 36 months of daily wear), revealing a warmer, greyish-yellow underneath. A local jeweler can restrip and replate for $50 to $150. If white gold is on your shortlist, confirm the alloy uses palladium rather than nickel to avoid skin reactions; a matching complementary read is our white gold vs platinum identification guide.
Hallmarks by karat: US and international marks
Every legitimate gold piece sold in the US carries a stamp indicating its fineness. The FTC requires that the stamp accurately reflect content, with a tolerance of 0.003 (three parts per thousand) for solid gold and 0.007 for pieces containing solder. The National Gold and Silver Stamping Act (15 USC 294 through 300) makes fraudulent stamping a federal offense.
| Karat | US karat mark | International fineness mark | Where you see it |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24K | 24K, 24Kt, 24 Karat | 999, 999.9, .9999 | Investment bars, PAMP/Perth Mint coins |
| 22K | 22K, 22Kt | 916, .9167 | American Eagle rim, Indian bridal sets |
| 18K | 18K, 18Kt | 750, .750 | European luxury jewelry, Rolex crowns |
| 14K | 14K, 14Kt | 585, .585 | US wedding bands, chains, mid-range rings |
| 10K | 10K, 10Kt | 417, .417 | Class rings, championship rings, fashion pieces |
Beside the karat stamp, look for a maker’s mark (a small logo or initials) and, on European pieces, a national assay mark (a leopard’s head for London, an eagle head for Paris). If the piece has no karat stamp at all, treat any verbal claim about its purity with skepticism until an acid test or XRF scan confirms it. Our jewelry hallmarks identification guide walks through common maker’s marks and how to spot forged stamps.
How to calculate melt value per gram at a given spot
Melt value is the intrinsic gold content of a piece valued at the current London spot price. It ignores craftsmanship, brand, and gemstones. It is the floor number a scrap buyer or pawn shop uses to build their offer. The formula is:
Melt value = (spot price per troy ounce ÷ 31.1035) × purity fraction × weight in grams
Here is a worked example at a hypothetical spot of $2,400 per troy ounce, using a 10-gram 14K ring:
- Step 1. Convert spot per troy ounce to spot per gram: $2,400 ÷ 31.1035 = $77.16 per gram of pure gold.
- Step 2. Apply the karat purity fraction. 14K is 0.583, so $77.16 × 0.583 = $44.99 per gram of 14K.
- Step 3. Multiply by the weight. $44.99 × 10 grams = $449.90 melt value.
Use the same three steps for any karat by swapping the purity fraction: 0.999 for 24K, 0.917 for 22K, 0.750 for 18K, 0.583 for 14K, 0.417 for 10K. Live spot is quoted in USD per troy ounce by the LBMA (currently $4,284.68 as of 10 hours ago). Our gold value calculator automates this against a live spot price so you can drop in the karat, weight, and skip the arithmetic.
Melt value at $2,400 spot: side-by-side by karat
| Karat | Purity fraction | Melt value per gram at $2,400 spot | Melt value of a 10-gram piece |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24K | 0.999 | $77.08 | $770.85 |
| 22K | 0.917 | $70.75 | $707.55 |
| 18K | 0.750 | $57.87 | $578.71 |
| 14K | 0.583 | $44.99 | $449.91 |
| 10K | 0.417 | $32.17 | $321.75 |
Spot moves every second the London market is open. Rerun the formula at the day’s live number before quoting anyone. And treat these figures as intrinsic content, not offers: buyers deduct a margin from melt for their refining costs and profit, as we cover next.
How dealers, pawn shops, and refiners actually price each karat
Once you know melt value, the next question is what percentage of melt a real buyer will pay. The answer depends on who you sell to and how visible the karat is to them. The Federal Trade Commission’s consumer guidance on selling gold is worth reading before any transaction; it lists the questions to ask and the disclosures a buyer must legally make.
- Refiners (LBMA-connected, industrial): 90 to 96% of melt for verified karat batches above a few hundred grams. Not a route for one-off jewelry.
- Local jewelers who cast their own pieces: 70 to 90% of melt for solid, clean, karat-stamped items they can re-alloy or resell as scrap.
- Pawn shops: 40 to 70% of melt. They factor in acid or XRF testing time, holding period, and their own refining downstream. Higher karats generally get better ratios because the melt content is easier to verify and worth more per weighed gram.
- Cash-for-gold mail-in services: 20 to 60% of melt, sometimes lower. Their offer arrives after you have already shipped, which reduces your leverage to reject it.
- Online marketplaces and dealer-networks that solicit competing bids: typically the highest realized price for a private seller, because multiple licensed buyers compete against each other in writing.
Karat also changes verification risk. 10K and low-karat pieces often carry a bigger discount because the alloy load is heavier and buyers spend more time proving the karat is real. Well-stamped 18K, 22K, and 24K bullion move faster and closer to melt.
Selling gold jewelry? Compare bids before you accept the first offer.
If you are thinking about selling a mixed lot of karats, you can post one free request on Goldiew’s sell gold page. Up to 15 verified US buyers see the item, respond with sealed offers, and you choose which bid to accept. There is no fee to post and no obligation to sell. You can also browse open listings on the Goldiew marketplace to see what similar pieces are actually clearing at. This is often the fastest way to translate the melt-value math above into a real check.
Which karat is right for a specific use
The right karat depends on how the piece will live. Below is a shorthand.
- Investment or long-term hold: 24K bars or coins. Maximum gold per gram, minimal fabrication premium at scale.
- Collector coin with a legal-tender premium: 22K American Eagles, sovereigns, Krugerrands.
- Heirloom engagement ring or luxury watch: 18K, in yellow, rose, or palladium-based white.
- Daily-wear wedding band, gift chain, or everyday ring: 14K, ideally in a nickel-free alloy for sensitive skin.
- Statement fashion piece or class ring meant to last decades of hard wear: 10K, accepting the lower resale value in exchange for hardness and low cost.
Common mistakes buyers make with karat marks
- Treating “gold plated” or “gold filled” as karat gold. Plated pieces contain a microscopic gold layer over base metal and carry near-zero melt value. Gold-filled has more (usually 5%) but is still not solid.
- Assuming a heavy piece is high karat. Weight comes from total alloy, not gold content. A 20-gram 10K chain has less than half the gold of a 20-gram 22K chain.
- Ignoring the plating on white gold. Fading to yellowish-grey is not damage, it is exposed alloy. Replate every 12 to 36 months for daily-wear rings.
- Trusting an unverified stamp. Ask for an acid, electronic, or XRF test if a piece is unstamped or if the stamp shows wear. Reputable jewelers do this for free.
- Comparing offers without a written melt calculation. Every legitimate buyer should be willing to show weight, karat, spot price used, and their percentage-of-melt offer. If they will not, walk.
Frequently asked questions about karat comparison
Which karat is worth the most per gram?
24K is worth the most per gram because 99.9% of every gram is gold. At any live spot, melt value drops proportionally with karat: 22K is worth about 91.7% of 24K per gram, 18K about 75%, 14K about 58.3%, and 10K about 41.7%. Multiply the day’s spot per gram (spot per troy ounce divided by 31.1035) by the purity fraction to get the exact figure.
Why is 14K so much more common than 18K in the US?
Cost and durability. 14K contains 22% less gold than 18K, so a 14K wedding band prices meaningfully lower at the same design. The alloy is also harder, so it holds up better to daily American consumer wear (typing, cooking, gym). European buyers historically prefer 18K for the higher gold content and richer color; US buyers gravitate to 14K for the price and toughness.
Is 10K gold considered “real gold”?
Yes. 10K is the US legal minimum fineness that can be sold and marked as “gold” under FTC rules (16 CFR Part 23). Below 10K a piece must be labeled by its actual fineness. 10K is a real gold alloy with 41.7% gold content, just at the low end of the ratio.
Do all karats tarnish?
Pure 24K does not tarnish because gold itself is chemically inert. Lower karats can tarnish because their alloy metals (copper, silver, nickel, zinc) react with sulfur, chlorine, sweat, and cosmetics. 10K tarnishes fastest, 22K rarely tarnishes visibly, and 14K and 18K sit in between. Rose alloys tarnish faster than yellow ones because they carry more copper.
What does the number 585 stamped inside a ring mean?
585 is the international fineness mark for 14K gold. It means 585 parts per thousand are gold (58.5%), which corresponds to the 14/24 karat ratio (rounded). You will see 999 for 24K, 916 or 917 for 22K, 750 for 18K, 585 for 14K, and 417 for 10K. European jewelry uses these numeric marks more often than the “K” stamp familiar to American buyers.
Can I mix karats when selling gold jewelry?
Yes, and most sellers do. Buyers weigh and price each karat separately because the melt content differs. Sort by karat before you weigh so you know exactly what you are handing over. If a stamp is unreadable or missing, ask the buyer to test it in front of you rather than lumping it into an unspecified pile.
Does karat affect skin allergy risk?
Yes, indirectly. Pure gold (24K) is not an allergen. Reactions come from the alloy metals, especially nickel in some white gold formulations. Higher karats contain proportionally less alloy metal, so 18K white gold typically causes fewer reactions than 14K white gold, and palladium-based white gold at any karat is generally hypoallergenic. If you know you react to costume jewelry, ask specifically for nickel-free alloys.
Are 22K American Gold Eagles better than 24K coins for investment?
They serve different purposes. American Gold Eagles are 22K because copper and silver harden the coin to survive handling. Each Eagle still contains a full troy ounce of pure gold; the total weight is higher to accommodate the alloy. 24K coins (Canadian Maple Leaf, Perth Mint) hold slightly less alloy risk but scratch and dent more easily. Both trade close to spot with a small premium; the choice usually comes down to durability preferences and dealer availability.
How do I check if a piece is really the karat it claims?
Three common methods. An acid test uses graded nitric acid on a rubbed streak; slow and inexpensive, standard at most pawn shops. An electronic tester passes a small current through the piece; fast and non-destructive. An XRF (X-ray fluorescence) scan reads the alloy composition without touching the piece; the most accurate consumer-grade option, offered by many gold buyers and refiners. Ask which method the buyer uses before committing to a sale.
Sources
- Federal Trade Commission. 16 CFR Part 23: Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries. Governs karat marking, tolerances, and permitted claims for US gold sellers.
- Federal Trade Commission. Selling Your Gold: Consumer Tips. Consumer guidance on evaluating buyer offers.
- United States Code. 15 USC Chapter 8: National Stamping Act. Federal statute criminalizing fraudulent karat stamping.
- American Academy of Dermatology. Nickel Allergy Overview. Clinical reference on nickel reactions in jewelry alloys.
- US Mint. American Eagle Gold Coin Specifications. Official composition: 91.67% gold, 3% silver, 5.33% copper.
- London Bullion Market Association. Precious Metal Prices. Reference spot price source in USD per troy ounce.